torres del paine in three parts: grey glacier

I never in my lifetime have seen this color blue. It is infinite.  It is translucent.  It is the darkest of blues imaginable.  It is impossible to represent and impossible to comprehend.


Glacier Grey is not the most massive of glaciers, and unfortunately ever shrinking.  But its 5 km span and 15 km depth are staggering and the subtle chill reflecting off the ice is a cool reminder of the age of this sighing, sleeping giant.


An easy trek alongside Lago Grey brings you face to face with the glacier in all its glory.  The path undulates through a valley with increasingly breathtaking views of rouge icebergs floating through the sediment heavy water.  On all sides jagged cliff faces covered in smaller, hanging glaciers and snow packs disappear into the cloud cover above.


We reached Refugio Grey barely breaking a sweat and waited for the brand new boat to come pick us up for a comfortable and breathtaking cruise to the face of the glacier.


And there I was, face to face with striations that multiplied before your eyes, devastatingly sharp edges of ice pointing boldly to the sky, caves hollowed out over eons of wind and water erosion, the fragility of our ecosystem placed before me with no disguise, no interpretation, no room for argument.


We road back to ecocamp in silence, contemplating the enormity of what we had just seen.  Landscape after impressive landscape flew past the window of the van.  Although the day was moody and cloudy in typical Patagonian fashion, the granite rock faces fading into non-existence behind low hanging and threatening clouds were beautiful.


Ecocamp welcomed us home with yet another gourmet hot meal and I once again gave thanks that I was able to experience and witness such majesty and comfort.  The sunset behind the towers sparking red and gold and blue was humbling on an entirely foreign level.  Patagonia brought me peace and I accepted it with arms and eyes wide open.



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